The last few days I've experienced many firsts; helicopter rides, sea turtles, pacific sun rises and finally Hawaii itself. Many things are synonymous with the volcanic chain like poi, hula and of course the sport of kings, surfing. Never have I been in a position to try something so demanding and exciting at the same time, until now. 
When I first got out on the water my surf instructor told me to wait on a good set. I forgot all his training on the first wave and wiped out. Second set I paddled hard and he told me to jump up and just like that I was surfing on my first wave. I wouldn't say I was carving it up but, I'm no speedbump I rode it all the way in. The lesson is suppose to last two hours. I was done in one. I was totally used up and worn slap out. I won't say I'm too old but, I only thought I was in shape.
My sister Lauri was a paddle board fool. She was standing up paddling like a champ after just a few minutes of instruction. She did the surfing thing too and I got a great shot of her on the board blowing by me, she was so stoked!We both left the beach that day frothing from the freakshow. I will be back bra. Shaka dude!
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